ALTERNATIVE ALGARVE
Portugal’s Algarve is well known for it’s rugged coastline, beautiful beaches and world class golf courses. Yet there is so much more to this region that is often overlooked by visitors… as Trevor Claringbold discovers.

“If you’re scared, cover your eyes, as the next bit is kind of steep”, the amiable driver of our off-road Land Rover helpfully suggested as we reached the bumpy crest of the narrow, rocky, mountain track. The comment was aimed at one particularly nervous member of our group, who was not as keen as the rest of us on the spectacular ride into the mountains of southern Portugal.
As we edged over the crest, the nose of the vehicle began to tip alarmingly downwards, forcing the passengers to hold on even tighter than they had been already. What followed was a piercing scream from our friend that lasted an entire 300 metres, as we hurtled down the steep, uneven track. With dust and rocks flying from the wheels, the rest of us were grinning uncontrollably as the adrenalin took hold.
The jeep safari was just one of many highlights in a week looking beyond the golf and beaches that are so synonymous with the Algarve. The drivers knew their craft, and skilfully picked their way up a succession of gravel roads and farm tracks, entertaining us wish occasional bursts of speed, and giving a good deal of interesting commentary about the surrounding countryside.
They stopped at vantage points for great photo opportunities, and even reached the highest point in the Algarve – the impressive Fóia peak, some 902m above sea level. This popular summit is crowned with a restaurant and visitor centre, but also has a strange phenomenon of people making small towers from the many smooth rocks that cover the ground. On a clear day the panoramic view is magnificent, taking in both the Atlantic and southern coastlines.
This was the physical high point of our week, but there were many more highlights in a journey that bizarrely began… at the ‘End of the World’! This is the term that was given in days of old to Cape St Vincent – the most south-westerly extreme of mainland Europe. When the earliest foundations of the fortress that now occupies the site were laid, little was known about the world beyond the horizon. The Cape is an interesting place to begin a tour, with the views northwards along the Atlantic coast, and eastwards along the Algarve both doing their best to outshine the other in their rugged beauty. Wildlife is abundant, with herons, kites, white storks, and even Bonelli’s eagles all making homes on the rocky cliffs. Nowadays it’s the small red and white lighthouse, the most powerful in Europe which dominates the skyline for the coach loads of tourists that pull up alongside the busy, ramshackle market.
A mile or so along the coast, at Sagres, is a significantly larger and more important fortress. It dates back to the 15th Century, when it was built by Henry the Navigator as his famous School of Navigation. He gathered some of the greatest astronomers, adventurers, and map makers, and set about revolutionising the art of navigation. Vasco da Gama, Cabral, and Magellan all studied here. From the nearby beach, now popular with surfers, ships set off on ever greater adventures, mapping the west coast of Africa, and setting the path for Portugal’s overseas empire.
Even today, as you approach the fortress, the huge walls are formidable. Enter through a long tunnel, and onto the wide courtyard, and you can’t avoid the huge wind compass build into the ground with 40 segments of dark pebbles. Unbelievably this 40 metre diameter circle was only unearthed below a church in the 1920’s, and with no documentary evidence to prove it was from the time of Henry, it is merely logic and romanticism that places it from that time.
Of course, nowadays there are infinitely more means by which you can explore foreign lands. Along the coast in the pretty medieval town of Lagos, our little group were relying on two wheels and a battery to get them around. We met with our guides on the cliff top path just outside the town, overlooking the glorious sandy beaches below. After some brief instruction, and a practice ride on our Segways, the haphazard convoy wound its way into the labyrinth of streets.
Lagos is a town of memories. Much of the original town, once the capital of the Algarve, with its mighty city walls and the first African slave market in Europe, was destroyed by an earthquake in 1755. What you see today might be largely more recent restoration, but the town still has a quaint, elegant, and historic feel, with its whitewashed houses, colourful shops, and narrow streets.
As we glide around the busy centre on our new wheels, there’s a sense that this is a town totally at ease with itself. Nobody hurries, everyone is polite, and an indulgent stop for a huge cream cake in the busy town square put us all in a completely relaxed frame of mind. Perfect then, for our next activity… wine tasting.

After a luscious, lazy lunch at the stylish Cascades Wellness and Lifestyle Resort, we made our way to the Quinta dos Vales winery.
Let’s be clear; this is not your typical vineyard. Of course there are neat rows of vines covering the hillsides for as far as the eye can see, a large bottling plant, and an impressive wine cellar and shop. But sprinkled all around are red elephants, flying angels, golden bulls, giant birds, and a somewhat disconcerting abundance of huge, rotund naked ladies! This is a vineyard that doubles as a vast outdoor art gallery.
I’m the first to admit that I’ve never been a huge art fan, but even I really enjoyed wandering the grounds, enjoying the warm sunshine, then settling down to taste a selection of their high quality reds. Sipping the wines to the backdrop of the gently setting sun, and a myriad of birdsong, it was certainly a moment to savour.
After a good night’s sleep there was a completely different treat in store. The extensive Zoomarine park combines an aquarium, marine theme park, and water park all in one. It’s a complete day out all on its own, with tropical birds, seals and sea lions, and even an interactive dinosaur experience – and all this accompanies the Zoomarine Beach with its pools, waterslides and body surfing.
We, however, had an appointment with a family of friendly locals – the dolphins. Not just to watch, but to swim with. Now I’ve been lucky enough to swim with dolphins in a number of places around the world, some better than others. Without doubt, this was one of the best. From the moment you step inside, you sense that the team here are one hundred percent focused on putting the animal’s safety and well-being first. Everything is explained in detail, and tightly controlled, which only enhances the overall experience.
When the time comes to join the dolphins in the pool, it’s always a magical experience. They come up to greet you, roll over for you to stroke them like some much-loved family pet welcoming you home. You can dance with them, hug them, and even speed across the pool with two of them pushing you with their noses on the soles of your feet. And of course, like all good friends, they’ll even wave goodbye as you leave!

Just down the road, in Albufeira, there’s a chance to see dolphins in a more natural environment – out at sea. Settling into a comfortable seat on one of Dreamwave’s inflatable ‘ribs’ we eased out of the harbour before our captain opened the throttle and headed west, hugging the iconic honey coloured cliffs of the Algarve. This is a great way to really get a feel for this coastline, especially as many of the caves and rocky outcrops can only be accessed from the sea. One of the largest, known as the Bengali Cave, even has its own beach inside and is lit from above by a huge hole where the roof has partially collapsed.
You also get a great view of the little fishing villages, with their colourful boats, as well as the quaint 15th Century chapel of Nossa Senhora da Rossa that still stands grandly on the cliff top. We didn’t see any dolphins on this cruise, although it’s not uncommon to spot some, but it really didn’t matter. Not every cake needs icing to make it a great cake.
The next morning I woke early to catch the sun rising above the palm trees of our hotel, and wondered what we could possible do to top the amazing experiences of the last few days. This was our last day, so we needed something special.
It was simple, really. We’d seen the Algarve from the land, and from the sea, so now we needed to see it from the air. A striking red, yellow and blue helicopter descended onto the helipad of the hotel, and as we climbed on board and strapped ourselves in, our pilot told us he would take us on a tour along the coast, and then inland towards the mountains we’d scrambled over in Land Rovers a few days before.
It was an unforgettable ride, floating over the coastal resorts and beaches, circling the towering rock formations, and getting a grandstand view of the entire western Algarve from one seat.

Rather than returning to the hotel, we made the most of our remaining time to try one last amazing experience. Feeling like celebrities, we landed at the Autodromo Internacional Algarve – a stunning, recently built Formula One standard race circuit. We were put through a series of adrenalin-fuelled challenges in race-tuned, open-topped Ginetta sports cars. Acceleration and braking tests, a tight auto-test course, and a large circular pad where we tried to power slide in circles… which proved nigh on impossible with the extra-grippy race tyres! Once they were confident you could handle the car, you are let out on the main circuit for some super-fast timed laps.
Even having to overcome the fact that I’d never seen the track before – not helped by the many dips and twists that meant you never knew what lay around the next corner – I still loved every moment. I also satisfied myself by posting the best time of all the guests, with the exception of our excellent local guide (I’ll get my own back on him if he ever comes to Brands Hatch!). As a bonus, I also managed fastest time of all through the speed trap – at jaw-dropping 164.38! Lewis Hamilton may not be quaking in his boots just yet, but I was still pleased!
As I headed back, happy and buzzing from the experience, to our hotel for the last night, I reflected on our week. Yes, the Algarve has some of the best beaches in Europe, bathed in soft, golden sunlight. Yes, it also has some amazing golf courses, with hotels to match. Yet, if that’s all you come here for, you are missing out on so much. Enjoy the beach, play golf, but make sure you experience everything else this eclectic region has to offer… you won’t regret it!
